British tour guide Zoe Stephens, who has visited North Korea 30 times since 2016, claims the secretive nation has “normal” aspects that contradict its global reputation, yet critics accuse her of downplaying serious human rights concerns.
At a Glance
- British tour guide Zoe Stephens has visited North Korea 30 times since 2016, claiming it has many “normal” aspects despite its global perception
- Tourists must follow strict rules: staying with guides at all times, asking permission before taking photos, and showing proper respect for North Korean leadership
- About 90% of North Korea remains off-limits to tourists, with all tours requiring mandatory guides
- North Korea has partially reopened to tourism for the first time since the COVID-19 pandemic
- Critics accuse Stephens of spreading propaganda by highlighting everyday activities while overlooking severe human rights abuses
The Controversial “Normalcy” of North Korea
Liverpool-born Zoe Stephens has become known for her TikTok vlogs depicting what she calls the “normal” side of North Korean life. Through her role guiding tourists from various countries, Stephens claims to observe North Koreans enjoying everyday activities like hiking, visiting cafes, and getting haircuts. Her portrayal stands in stark contrast to widespread reports about North Korea as a totalitarian state with significant human rights abuses, a massive military apparatus, and highly restricted communication infrastructure. Despite criticism from many who accuse her of spreading propaganda, Stephens has maintained her position about showing a different perspective.
North Korea partially reopened its borders to tourism in 2023 after a lengthy COVID-19 closure, allowing Stephens to resume her visits. Her experiences align with those of other frequent visitors like Simon Cockerell, a tour operator who has entered the country over 180 times. While both acknowledge the country’s strict regulations, they suggest that following rules can make visiting relatively safe. However, neither disputes the fundamental reality that tourists experience a highly controlled and limited view of the country under constant supervision.
Strict Rules for Foreign Visitors
Tourists in North Korea face numerous restrictions designed to control their movements and interactions. All visitors must be accompanied by at least two government-approved guides at all times and are forbidden from wandering independently. Photography requires permission, particularly around military installations or images that might reflect poorly on the country. Visitors start their journey in Beijing, where they receive a mandatory briefing on rules before entering the secretive nation. Approximately 90% of North Korea remains completely off-limits to foreigners, with itineraries strictly controlled by authorities.
Experts warn that discussing certain topics can put visitors at risk. According to tour operators, tourists should avoid conversations about religion, South Korean culture, or anything that could be perceived as criticism of North Korean leadership, especially Kim Jong Un. Religious talk is cited as a common reason foreigners have been detained.
Visitors are also prohibited from bringing in or leaving behind contraband materials, including South Korean cultural products, religious materials, or foreign publications about North Korea. These restrictions reflect the government’s tight control over information and outside influences.
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Balancing Tourism and Reality
Stephens acknowledges that communication with North Koreans is limited due to surveillance and language barriers. Her tours allow for some interaction, but meaningful connections remain constrained by political realities. She aims to challenge cultural misconceptions, believing North Korea can be understood differently than its portrayal in Western media. However, this approach has drawn criticism from human rights advocates who argue that such “normal” depictions minimize the suffering of North Korean citizens living under an authoritarian regime with documented abuses, including prison camps, forced labor, and extreme censorship.
“Oh, hey guys, I want to tell you the truth about your leaders, they’re actually quite terrible,” said Simon Cockerell.
Other Western tourists have also shared experiences visiting North Korea since its post-pandemic reopening. YouTuber Mike O’Kennedy documented his visit, highlighting similar observations about the strictly controlled nature of tourism there. For those considering such trips, experts emphasize that safety depends entirely on adhering to North Korean laws and guidelines. The consequence of straying from approved activities or challenging the political system can be severe, as demonstrated by previous cases of detained foreigners. As North Korea cautiously welcomes back tourists, the debate continues about whether such visits provide meaningful cultural exchange or merely support a repressive regime.
